The following steps will show you how to assemble your Makerbot 3D Scanner.
You will need a 2.5mm hex key (pliers are optional) to install the nuts and bolts, as well as either a hammer or wrench for installing threaded inserts (step 1).
0. (Optional) Clean Edges Lasercut Parts:
You may notice that the edges of the lasercut plywood pieces are slightly charred and will blacken whatever rubs against it. Simply take a paper towel and wipe the edges and/or the faces that seem blackened or smudgy.
(slightly damp paper towel works well)
1. Installing Threaded Inserts:
2. Webcam holster
You will need the two pieces below labeled middle and top along with two M3 22mm bolts and two M3 nuts.
-NOTE: these are the two longer bolts included in the kit
What you want to do is essentially sandwich the base of the webcam in between the two pieces of wood. The piece with the arc cut-out will be the top piece which should fit perfectly around the circle above the bottom stand of the webcam. Make sure that the holes are vertically aligned on both pieces, and also that the notches on the sides are all vertically aligned.
Using the PS3EYE
IF you are using the pico projector jr. with the PS3 EYE you should add an extra nut to the beginning of the 22mm bolt like so: (The pico jr is slightly thicker, and touches the bolt otherwise)
Place the bolts through the two holes (they should now be going through both wooden pieces), and then tighten a nut on each one.
Your holster should look like this:
NOTE: tighten the nut just enough so that the webcam is snug. The wood might bend very slightly, but do not over-tighten more than this or the wood will snap.
Using the lifecam, you have two options.
IF you are using the pico projector jr. with the LifeCam you should use 16mm bolts instead of 22mm bolts here (The pico jr is slightly thicker, and touches the longer bolt otherwise)
a. Similar to the EYE, sandwich the base of the webcam into the wooden slot like so:
make sure that the arc is facing the back of the webcam. Also ensure that the rubber bendable base is extending over the end without the arc so that the piece will fit.
b. The other option is to simply sandwich the end of the bendable base like so:
Next, I recommend inserting and then taping a hex nut into each of the holes in the bottom piece of the hoslter like so (the nuts are covered by the tape in the picture):
this will allow you to secure the webcam after you have constructed the rest of the MakerBot 3D Scanner.
3. Mount the projector
You will need the projector base plate as well as your projector and the provided bolt. Depending on which projector you have, there are separate assembly instructions:
* Using the pico projector 101
* Using the pico projector jr.
Using either projector, the lens should be centered at the front of the base plate
4. Attach Sidings
Take the side that says Makerbot Industries on it, and also has a leg-shaped cut out. This should fit onto the left side of the base plate via two notches. Insert a 16mm bolt into the bottom hole and then fit a nut into the corresponding base plate cut out, and tighten.
Make sure that the lettering is facing outside from the base plate, and also that the arrow is pointing in the same direction as the base plate+projector.
It should look as follows:
Before attaching anything else to the base plate, it makes things a lot simpler to attach the iphone holder first to the right siding.
Take the right siding (looks like the left but has a few box cut outs instead of a leg cut out), along with the piece labeled back and bottom.
Fit the two pieces top and bottom into the inner side of the right siding piece. The inner side is the side with the threaded insert hanging out about a centimeter. The top piece should fit in so that the flush notch is on the bottom, and the lower notch is on the top.
The right siding should now look like this:
Add two nuts and bolts to attach the pieces to the siding
Now, simply fit the right siding assembly that you just made onto the base plate, just as you did with the left siding piece. Everything should now fit together like so:
Add and tighten all respective nuts and bolts.
5. Attach front and back
The front is the side that has the MakerBot "M" etched in it. Fit the front onto the rest of the mount and add four nuts and bolts. Note that the front has a cut out rectangle within the m in the middle; this should be perfectly lined up with the projectors lens.
For the remaining back side, simply slide the top left corner onto the overhang from the left siding like so:
Add three nuts and bolts to the other corners
Your device should look as follows:
6. Fit in the webcam
You may notice that the two slots on both sides of the MakerBot 3D Scanner are the same width as the notches on the webcam.
Simply slide the assembled webcam holster into the slots so that the webcam is facing the same was as the projector (front).
[If you angle the holster, it should fit perfectly through the top of the MakerBot 3D Scanner.]
There are two options for how you keep the webcam in place
* Option 1:
There are two holes in the sidings that you CAN add 16mm bolts through to make sure that the webcam does not fall out. The bolts will make the webcam very secure within the MakerBot 3D Scanner.
* Option 2:
I prefer to stick some masking tape on the slot edges (or any other tape that is a little grippy and not too thick); this makes the webcam very snug within the slots and also allows you to take the webcam out very easily! You do not need to add the webcam bolts if you use this option
The webcam holster can fit into two different slots; the first so that it fits inside the MakerBot 3D Scanner and the other so that it overlooks the top of the MakerBot 3D Scanner as seen below:
The two height options are to allow the webcam to obtain better depth perception when scanning different sized objects.
-Smaller objects do not need as much of a separation between the webcam and the projector, and by keeping them closer together, the scanned object will not be distorted due to "viewing" a different perspective from the projector. In addition, you will not be capturing "shadows" that arise from the different perspective.
-Larger objects need to be scanned from further away (so that the entire object can be seen via the the webcam & be in view of the projector) so they need a larger separation.
-You can pick either one for now, as both will give you good scans - My rule is usually that if you are scanning someones face or a larger object, use the higher webcam slot; else use the lower (you will learn which one to use as you take more and more scans)
7. Attach cords + iphone/ipod
Included with your pico projector box, you will find cords that connect the projector to power, and to an iphone/ipod (if you are using). There are custom cut-outs within the MakerBot 3D Scanner to allow all wires to connect to the projector
(note that both projectors contain a battery, so the power cord does not always need to be connected)
Your iphone/ipod fits into the back slot. Iphone slides in from the left side, and then connects to the white cable via the slot on the other side.
Other devices can be placed in however fits best.