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I am having an issue with my Generation 1 Replicator Dual thermostat for my Left extruder assembly. I recently bought a new extruder assembly and just got it wired onto my Makerbot. The right extruder works fine, but the left extruder is stuck at 60C. When I try unhooking the right extruder thermostat, I get an error reading that the unit is no longer receiving a signal from this sensor. However, when I unhook the the left extruder thermostat I do not get this error, so it appears that the unit still thinks that it is getting a reading from this sensor. Furthermore, I have confirmed that the left extruder is heating up and I have used a infrared thermometer to confirm that it is reaching a temperature over 60c.

I am running firmware 7.5, and everything else appears to be up to date.

Does anyone have any experience with this or a similar issue and can possible recommend some troubleshooting solutions? Please let me know if you need any other information.

Thanks!

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It says that: " If you combine this with a motor and a microcontroller, then you can build a closed-loop positioning system whose speed and position can be precisely determined and controlled, even if something unexpected happens."

Questions:
1. I need a Micro-controller board in between the Magnetic Linear Encoder, in this case Arduino Uno, and the makerbot controller board for translation, is this correct?

2. I have a cupcake the very 1st version, has anyone close the loop to this machine? How do you install the magnetic strip to the XY axes?

thanks,

Anyway, hi everyone, my name is Jeff and I'm working on a Thing-o-matic owned by my local makerspace. The machine is running with Jetty firmware and up until recently, an MK7 extruder. I've had consistent problems with the extruder in terms of feeding issues, admittedly most of which are caused by low ambient temp in the shop. For more consistent behavior, I've built a no-hob extruder (Thingiverse thing 28430).

The extruder is working great in terms of filament feeding. The problem I'm having now is getting the machine profile and skeinforge profiles set up appropriately and I'm hoping someone can help.

I've read all the threads I can find about calculating steps per mm, although I've been unable to find one specific to replicatorg and the ToM with a geared extruder. Based on the math provided by the extruder designer (in the instructions section of the thingiverse page) I have the steps per mm set to 970. I've created a new machine definition in the /machines/thingomatic-advanced.xml file based on the original settings and added the new stepspermm value, and I've confirmed (through the machine information menu option) that the value is being loaded.

The gearing is giving me fits. I figure with a 47/9 gear ratio (5.222) and the new driver gear giving an additional 1.89 ratio (old was 10.58mm, new is 5.2mm) I *think* that gives me an effective drive gear size of 1.07mm. I plugged that into the ProfileMaker on Makerblock and generated a new profile. The resulting print had an extrusion speed that was WAY too slow based on the 20mm test cube I printed.

Has anyone swapped in a geared extruder onto their ToM? If so, can you either find a flaw in my math, or thing of something I've missed? I'm inclined to think I missed something somewhere in a config file or in the app because even increasing the stepspermm value dramatically in the XML file doesn't appear to change anything.

Thanks for reading,

Jeff

I need some tips and trics for maker bot.

As I am planning to get into this Business, So before I could get started into this business.

I have certain queries regarding this, which are listed below.

1. Where do you get the makerbot replicator 3d printer supply in india.

2. What are the skills needed?

3. Where / what type of clients?

4. How much does it cost, the production of per unit?

5. How do you charge the client (profit margin)?

It would be a real help If I find the answers.

thanking you sincerely.
NewBieIndia

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My current print has larger periods of travel in order to build tall pilers on the corners of the object. During the time of travel from one corner of the object to the other, the nozzle starts to extrude 1-2 seconds before arriving to the corner. As a result, each of the pilers has little excess lines of plastic hanging from the sides. I'll have to go in and trim it to clean it up.

Is there a setting that deals with this in SF? Some setting that will prevent the nozzle from turning on too soon before arriving to the destination of where it should start extruding?

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2) What do i connect in the connectors "heater" and "extra"? The heatbed terminals where do i connect?

Thanks a lot.

Bart

Looking for real information from real users (as opposed to the press release type stuff from back at the end of September), I'm not finding anything. So here are some questions (and apologies in advance for duplication):

** Are there any Rep2s actually out there in users' hands?

** If so, how has the general experience been?

** What is the basic user community thinking about what seems like a major, huge departure from the CupCake->TOM line of development?

** In terms of print quality and print time, is there any real, independent assessment of how the Rep2 stacks up against the TOM and other currently available machines?

I sincerely appreciate any info and comments from the folks here on the board who have been so informative and helpful in the past!

The problem is that this causes overheating (I'm guessing) when I try to print and then the filament doesn't feed correctly to allow the extruder to work correctly.

Everything was working correctly until I updated the software and firmware.

I'm upgrading from RegG 37 to RepG 40.

I used my own upgrade cheat sheet and copied over all the information about my bot.

But now, when I try to build, I get errors regarding the GCode that I'm using. The codes that appear in the errors are not in the Gcode files that I am trying to use.

[18:06:37] Homing in the wrong direction for selected machine: 'G162 Z F500 (home Z axis maximum)' [18:06:37] Homing in the wrong direction for selected machine: 'G162 Z F100 (home Z axis maximum)'

I have deleted all the other bot profiles from the RepG40 folders. And I have deleted all the settings for those particular machines.

I have upgraded the remaining Start|End .gcode files that I can find within the remaining folder structure, but still I am receiving this error when I try to build.

Where in the world is RepG getting this information? I don't have homing and I don't have these issues on the build 37 that I had been using. It's something to do with v40.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Bart

I have attempted using repG37 and repG33, but I get similar, although slighly diffferent results.

I am hoping that there is a simple solution. I am a designer and not a computer person, so I am a fish out of water now.

I have a Thing-O-Matic w HPB MK6

I was troubleshooting the 1024° temperature reading issue on my TOM with HBP/Stepstruder MK7 and managed to snap off the plastic connector from the HBP's PCB. Soldering it back on is impossible—the minuscule traces connecting each soldering pad to the PCB have pulled away from the board.

Is there a way to configure the bot so it doesn't attempt to take a platform temperature reading during printing? Getting it to print at all is more important to me than having a working HBP.

Incidentally, is Makerbot still selling TOM HBP PCBs?

Thanks!

I'm using a Makerbot Thing o matic 3d printer with a mk6 extruder and Sailfish firmware, do you think I can print PLA ?
Which speed rate is the best to print PLA and which temp ?
Thanks in advance

Anais

I have currently the mk6 stepstruder and I want to upgrade to a 'home made' mk7 stepstruder, so I was wondering if someone has already done that and can help me to do that.

Thanks in advance,

Ana

After the heater is at 220*C, maybe 2 minutes, I try to pull the filament out and push it back in a few times, which it should allow me to. But I can clearly see the filament has expanded. I have tried over and over to replace it with the same material to no avail.

Has anyone had this problem? I can take a photo if my explanation is difficult to read.

Has anyone else purchased nozzles or anything else from them?

Step 6: Getting ready for your first accelerated print
You're almost ready. However, it's best to ensure that your extruder is mechanically ready to handle fast feed rates. From either ReplicatorG's machine control panel or a Gen 4 LCD Interface, try some test extrusions at fast speeds. Of course, you first need to get your extruder up to temperature!

If using a Gen 4 LCD Interface, use the "Preheat" menu item to start heating up the extruder. Use the "Extrude" menu item to then do some test extrusions. With that menu item, you can adjust the speed of the extruder as well as the duration of the extrude operation.

If your extruder will not handle faster feed rates — if it skips steps or jams — you should service it and perhaps tune its plunger a bit. It may simply need the teeth of the feed gear cleaned.

Consider the following for the second paragraph:

If using a Gen 4 LCD interface, use the "Preheat" menu item to start heating up the extruder. Use the "Extrude" menu item to then do some test extrusions. With that menu item you can adjust the speed of hte extruder as well as the duration of the extrud operation. The extrude menu indicates the filament input speed, not the rate at which filament is extruded. For a MK7 extruder with a standard gear (10.56mm), 1.8mm filament and a 0.4mm nozzle see the table below for a guide for approximate output filament rates.

To calculate your own rates use the equation below:

Output Rate = (input_rate * (pi * input_filament_radius^2))/(pi * output_filament_radius^2)

I just upgraded to Jetty v3.5 and am having a TON of problems trying to print!
Every time I attempt a print, the extuder head moves to some point WAY above the build platform and the X/Y motor speeds are moving at a complete snail's pace! I have no idea why this is happening! :(

Any help would be most appreciated! :)

My start.gcode here:

( beginning of start.gcode )
(This file is for a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic)
( begin initialization commands )
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
M108 R5.0 (set extruder speed)
M103 (Make sure extruder is off)
M104 S225 T0 (set extruder temperature)
M109 S100 T0 (set heated-build-platform temperature)
( end initialization commands )
( begin homing )
G162 Z F1000 (home Z axis maximum)
G92 Z112 (set Z to 0)
G1 Z0 (move z down 10)
G162 Z F150 (home Z axis maximum)
G161 X Y F2500 (home XY axes minimum)
M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis)
( end homing )
( begin pre-wipe commands )
( Some people have had problems with the nozzle hitting )
( bolts or wipers during this pre-extrusion warmup. )
( If this happens to you, you can change the values for )
( the X and Y positions in the following code. )
( The goal is to have the toolhead wipe its initial )
( extrusion near the edge of the platform, [anchor it] )
( so as not to have it interfere with the print. )
( This file can be found in: )
( replicatorg/skein_engines/skeinforge-##/skeinforge_application/ )
( prefs/<profile name [e.g. Thingomatic-ABP-Mk7]>/alterations )
G1 X25 Y-60 Z10 F3300.0 (move to waiting position)
M6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)
G0 X25 Y-57 (Position Nozzle)
G0 Z0.6 (Position Height)
M108 R4.0 (Set Extruder Speed)
M101 (Start Extruder)
G4 P1500 (Create Anchor)
( end pre-wipe commands )
( end of start.gcode )

Thanks!

Thanks!

I wasn't going to reply to him after the first email about the AR-15 but I wanted to see where it was going.

Has this happened to anyone else? Comments? Advice?

Here is the email exchange (I substituted "-—-" for the personal info:

interested in your Replicator- Pls. Call or email me….
7 messages
Wil -— <--> Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 5:17 PM
To: --——gmail.com

—
Wil --
-.-.—

--- <---gmail.com> Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 6:49 PM
To: Wil ---— <--—-gmail.com>
Hey Wil,

Just wanted to let you know I got your email. I'm totally swamped right now with work and I'm going on a trip Weds-Sunday. Maybe we can talk next week if you're still interested.
My number is ---

Are you in NYC?

Thanks

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 5:17 PM, Wil -- <--—gmail.com> wrote:

—
Wil --—-

Wil ---<---gmail.com> Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 6:53 PM
To: ---<---gmail.com>
Not in NYC but my sister lives near Newark and I could have her facilitate and then ship to me in Park City Utah. Next week is fine, let me ask a question.

Is the quality of the finished product good enough in ABS to make a AR-15 Lower for a rifle? You can look up AR-15 lower on the web and see them, they are usually Aluminum but some are made in ABS, here is a link.

---(He sent me a link to AR-15 parts, but Makerbot forums wont let me post links because I'm a new account)----—
[Quoted text hidden]

Wil --—-

--- <---gmail.com> Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 8:57 PM
To: Wil --- <---gmail.com>
Hey,

The quality is most likely good enough. it would take a lot of work and patience with the printer to get it perfect though.

It can print these dimensions:

(I linked to makerbots dimensions page)

After lots of tweaking I have gotten models to print with a layer thickness that is the same as a sheet of paper (or thinner) so its pretty smooth. Its tricky to get it smooth tho, a lot of babysitting is required to get it to begin right on the 1st layer and print at the right speed.

I'm not sure the legality of printing AR-15 parts tho, just to keep in mind. But this isn't my area of expertise
[Quoted text hidden]
--- <moc.liamg|-------------#moc.liamg|-------------> Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 8:58 PM
To: Wil --- <moc.liamg|-------------#moc.liamg|------------->
You could also use ABS as a mold for aluminum casting
[Quoted text hidden]

Wil --- <moc.liamg|-------------#moc.liamg|-------------> Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 9:02 PM
To: --- <moc.liamg|-------------#moc.liamg|------------->
Its legal to make your own gun with out register or serial numbers….
[Quoted text hidden]
—
Wil --—-

Any comments appreciated