Hey, we're going to try something new here. Rather than have all the support questions go to the MakerBot Google Group, we're going to see if we can focus support issues here on this forum. Got a problem? Got a solution? Post them here!
How easy is it to take the build platform out while wired up?
It looks like the LEDs go onto the bottom only, but the heating element is connected to vias from the bottom (LED side) to the other - where the heat transfer compound is. Does the heating action happen on the top, bottom or both?
The heater traces are on the top of the board. The corresponding components are on the bottom of the board. The heater is connected by vias. This way you can have a nice flat PCB top and lots of cool components on the bottom.
Anyone have a recommendation of a cheap hot plate to use? Would putting the aluminum plate underneath help?
I understand the instructions and all, but to what degree am I required to assemble this puppy? I have no desire to SMT-solder any teeny tiny parts, basic wiring notwithstanding. If the board comes pre-prepped and all I have to do is assemble it, then I'm all about it. Thanks, looking forward to my batch12 monstrosity shipping :)
After reading the instructions it seems you would only be required to solder one SMT resistor and one SMT capacitor for the thermistor plus the few wires. All of the other SMT components are LEDs and resistors which are optional so you could get away with minimal soldering. I'm sure you could use a soldering iron to solder the two SMT components and not require the use of a hotplate.
yup, all you need to solder are 1 resistor and 1 capacitor. even the capacitor you could get by without.
the leds and associated resistors are 100% optional.
Thank you! Apparently I don't read as well as I thought I did. Appreciate it boys! I'll order mine today, I think.
Wait, why is board identical on both sides? Won't the unused pads on the one side be bridged as soon as you apply the aluminium plate?
there are 2 completely separate circuits on each side of the board. one has slightly smaller traces than the other one. just ignore it and things will be fine. :)
Ah, that explains it. I thought the vias were connecting the tracks on each side but after looking at the schematic and board layouts I can see that they don't. Might be worth a small note on the wiki mentioning this in case people get confused.
Guys I posted this earlier on the makerbot operators group:
I wonder if the the aluminum plate could not have threads in the
holes, which would make it nice and flat, by screwing the bolts directly on the
aluminum plate..
I donĀ“t like the 6 bolts coming all the way up thru the build
platform…
If the Kapton came 4x4 inches without the pre-cut would be easier to do this mod…
Is makerbot going to sell 4x4 inches kapton tape also?
Just countersink the top of the aluminum plate and use screws with conical heads. It's much easier, much tougher, and gives you the same flat build surface. And it is compatible with the little laser shortcut that Bre uses to avoid six dives of the laser into the material… .
good idea… I guess that only depends on how thick is the aluminum plate..
It seems that the usable surface area from the heated surface is cut down with the kit screws. Is this correct, or has the build platform been made larger so it is still the 100cm square build surface on the bottom.
What is the new max build area? I wouldn't want to hit the extruder with the screws during build time.
Build platform looks to be the standard MB one to me. I guess we'll see when we get the kit. Mine is on it's way!
Please let me know as soon as you get it. I am dying to know. I am in the hopes that I can buy the makerbot with heated build platform, but if it shrinks the printable area (already fairly small in my opinion) then I will just have to build my own.
Mine showed up yesterday. The build platform is 4x4 inches but the bolts that hold it all together - see the pic on the wiki and the comments a few posts back - end up making the usable surface about 3.5x4, maybe a hair less.
Not 100% happy about that. I think I would have happily paid an extra few $ to have it be the same size.
edit: and by "not 100% happy" I don't mean I'm unhappy - not at all! That said, as a total newbie to this area without much for tools & experience, between the option of buying what I need to countersink a very thin aluminum plate without botching it then finding the right screws for it and the option of spending a bit more and just having to put the parts together, I'll take the latter. Happy? Yes. Could be a bit happier? Also yes.
As I wrote earlier, countersink the holes from the top and use screws with conical heads. All standard parts, but the platform stays flat. MakerBot doesn't do that because contersinking is a relatively expensive step in serial manufacturing.
I understand that, but if you end up counter-sinking the holes wouldn't you have a problem with there not being any kapton film where the holes are? I was just hoping they made the platform wider so that it actually wouldn't matter.
Doe anyone know where to buy this kapton film? Online, or in Canada?
I am glad that the platform has the same size as before because I use the few millimeters free space around the platform to calibrate the head and to brush the extruder. Since you probably never need to unscrew the platform again, you can run the capton over the screw heads. I don't know where to get Capton tape in Canada, but found a German supplier by browsing an online catalog for industrial supplies by entering "Capton Tape".
Dealextreme sell 'high temperature tape' which is the same stuff and they do it in various sizes. They ship from China so you'll be waiting a little while for it to arrive but it's cheap.
http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.high%20temperature%20tape
How many uses do you think that the high temp tape will last for? Would the Kapton need to be replaced on occasion? I kinda wish it was just a full sheet like suggested above. How thin is the aluminum plate on the heated platform? Do you guys think it will be difficult to actually counter-sink it?
Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to decide whether or not it will be worth for me to buy the heated platform, or just to build my own.
Hey Fernando,
There was no way to increase the max build size. If we made the platform wider, it would have reduced the travel and had a net result of a smaller build size anyway. The new max build size is roughly 90mm x 100mm.
Zach
I have recieved and assembled my great makerbot platform, but everytime I open a control panel and turn on the platform by entering a temperature, it lights up with all the LEDS and begins to heat and then after 5-8 seconds, just shuts off the platform. I have to unplug and re-plug the 3pin connector from A-6 to get it to try again. Any ideas??
Further updates. i have tested all connections and there seems to be no faulty connections and the board is only pulling 3 amps and thus should not be overloading the chip. It seems to turn on and off intermittently if i tell it to make the temperature something close to its actual value (if it reads 23 and I input 30 it reacts more than setting it to 100 and waiting). The LED for the A outlet is going on and off accordingly and this leads me to believe it is a software issue. I have updated the firmware to 1.8 with heated build platform and even tried 2.0 Beta, but nither gives a better result. after 30min, I cannot get it to go above 45 degrees.
One more testing update. I connected the platform power from A to C (this is controlled by the cooling fan enabled button) I could then activate the heating by enabling the cooling fan, but it too failed after sevral seconds and could be turned on again temporarily by clicking the button on and off. I noticed however that the times it would stay on were getting shorter and the mosfet (?) below C was getting very hot. So basically these mosfets cannot handle something going on and are reseting themselves. Any ideas on how to fix this?? BTW this is a version 2.2 extruder board that came with my batch 10 machine.
Hey Coleman,
I've updated the wiki with a troubleshooting guide. Please let me know if these help you. Worst case scenario we can exchange your extruder controller, but hopefully you'll be able to solve it and get it working on your end. This is a great chance to learn more about the internals of your bot!
Zach
Zach,
great addition to the wiki, thanks. I bought a cheap video card "thermal Package" from micro center and cut one of the heatsinks to fit the mosfet, and now it runs great! less than $5 and i am back in business.