I purchased a Thingomatic w/MK6 and have been running it about a month and thought I'd post my experiences here.
When I first started I chose the Automated Build Platform. This seems good in theory as you can schedule batch prints where it prints somthing, kicks it off with the belt, prints another, etc. The problem I kept running into though is that my belts would eventually get quite warped.
When you use the ABP you are applying heat through the belt. The top of the build surface and belt is 120C while the bottom, insulated by a layer of wood, is a fair bit cooler. When you move the belt the cold side goes to the hot side and the hot side to the cold side. This rapid temperature change causes warping in the belt resulting in an uneven build surface.
I think ReplicatorG handles this by putting a cooling delay in after your print finishes but before belt ejection. When I was first testing I ran the hot belt manually and immediately warped it. On my 2nd belt I took care to let the belt cool after each print before turning it but still after 5 or 6 prints my belt was warped.
Printing with a raft somewhat compensates for the uneven build surface but I have found the rafts are nearly impossible to remove from your prints. This is not a big deal on some things as it just means an extra layer of plastic on the bottom of your print but for parts such as gears it is not acceptable. It's possible that with some Skienforge tweaking I could make the raft removable and then the ABP belts might become more viable. For now though I decided a dead even build surface is more important to me than using the ABP belt to create multiple parts. For that reason I have removed my ABP belt and switched to a Heated Build Platform (HBP).
My objective in going to HBP is to be able to print raftless with the highest possible quality. On the HBP build page they recommend using blue painters tape as a build surface. I did not have sucess with this. Without a raft, the first layer of plastic does not like to stick to the painters tape and tends to lift off causing inevitable issues. I then tried the 2nd method and used the ceramic tape for a build surface. Success!
The ceramic tape has worked excellent for me. 5 strips side by side perfectly covers it. The surface is dead level and the initial layer of plastic sticks well to the tape resulting in nearly perfect print quality. If I were going to build a 2nd makerbot I would go straight to an HBP with ceramic tape and save a bunch of time troubleshooting. I have been frustrated with print glitches up until recently but am now quite happy with the quality and am starting to print more advanced geometries.
Anyways, this has been my experience over the past few weeks of using my Makerbot. Let me know what you think.