Sorry, I wish I answered you earlier today ( I didn't see your post earlier):
well i got my relay to click and the heater respond, but only to preheat to 75c. i dont have the settings in controle panel to force the hotend to 225c
Im confused by what you mean. The driver you choose somewhat determines what options in the control panel you have but I think all still have 2 heater controls, one for the heated bed, one for the extruder. WHy could you not enter 225 and then press the enter key? Did it give you message?
Sorry, the cupcake instructions are not great but follow this at least for the heat test http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot
Temperature Measurement Check
First things first: check the temperature readings. These will be in the greyed out 'Current Temperature' boxes. If you are using the automated build platform, you'll need to check that too. The temperature readings are in Celsius. Since the extruder is off and cold, it should be reading room temperature. Depending on your location and season, that should be something around 21°C.
If your temperature is wildly different from that, then you probably hooked up the wires in the wrong direction. Re-read the Electronics Installation page and double check your wire orientation.
Turn Up The Heat
You should only do this step once your temperature sensors are working! Otherwise BAD THINGS may happen.
To repeat, NEVER OPERATE THE HEATER if the reported temperature is anything other than room temperature, usually around 20°C.
First, start off with a low temperature of 50°C. This will allow us to make sure the temperature sensors are truly working. Enter the value into the 'Target Temperature' field. You must tab out or click out of the field for the change to be sent to the machine.
Now, peek into your Thing-O-Matic. There are tiny little LEDs next to each MOSFET. It's a bit tricky to see, but the one near the heater wires should have turned on.
The real test is to wait 10–15 seconds for the temperature to start rising. It should start a consistent up-slope towards 50°C.
Note: If the temperature starts steadily decreasing, quickly set the target temperature to 0. It means that you've hooked up your thermocouple backwards! You definitely don't want that. If you see a temperature reversal, you need to shut down the machine, open up the case, and reverse the thermocouple wires.
If you have an automated build platform, test it separately. It should heat up much more quickly as it has a lower thermal mass.
Turn it All the Way Up
Now that your temperature is reporting properly, turn each one up to operating temperature. That is 220°C for the extruder, and 120°C for the heated build surface.
It will take about 5–10 minutes for them to fully heat up and equalize. During that time, the extruder may give off a wee bit of smoke. That is completely normal and is the result of the oils from the anti-sieze burning off. It's a good idea to open a window to let it dissipate.
Anyway, You have working firmware, leave that alone.
Debug has no meaning, don't worry about it.
The stopping on the line is normal. It takes a while for the system to heat up. Further, if you chose a driver with a heated bed, and do not have a heated bed or ABP, then when you generate gcode it waits for BOTH the heated bed and extruder to reach within 2 degrees of set temp. If you don't have a heated bed, it will never get there. Make sure your gcode profile is for a non-heated bed unless you have one. Futher, check the gcode tab and look to see if the created gcode is trying to set the heated bed temp?
Cannot fetch Flickr photo (id: 4946183658). The photo either does not exist, or is private
You should not have a line M109 if you do not have a heated bed. you are stopping on the command M6 which is normal, assuming you actually get to the set temp.
