Frostruder Mk1

Note: This method of extrusion has been abandoned.


First, know that this is by no means a final and bug free design and needs at least a few more iterations before we start selling them. Having said that, it does work quite well and is definitely fun to play with (mmmmmm…. frosted cupcakes).

The fourth iteration of the Frostruder brought a few nice changes. For one, it it much smaller in height than the previous version. It is also made out of wood instead of acrylic which gives it a nice look and feel.

We made two very similar versions of this design to accommodate two different motors (kysan 1156007 and kysan 1151607). The only real difference for each is the motor mounting and gears (we had to gear down the faster motor to provide enough torque).

How it Works
Basically the motor drives a gear with a nut that allows the threaded rod to move up and down. The rod is kept from rotating with the piece that is glued to the end of the rod and slides up and down in the slot.


Building Instructions
There are thirteen pieces of 5mm plywood that need to be lasercut and one acrylic gear (labeled motor gear in the dxf). Download the dxf here. The picture to the right should hopefully help show which parts go where. Besides the lasercut pieces you'll need about 10" of M8 threaded rod, a Kysan 1156007 motor, two 608 bearings, two M8 nuts, 15 m3x16mm bolts, 15 m3 nuts and a 30ml (1oz) syringe. Essentially you just need to press fit an m8 nut in the rod gear and sandwich it between two bearings held in place by "piggie" (i have no clue how it got this name) and "bearing block."

The syringe should be filled to the very top of the syringe and then compressed until it can fit in the frostruder (should be around 20ml). This keeps the amount of air within the syringe to a minimum which makes the extrusion have a better flow and cut-off.

Skeinforge Settings and GCode:
To generate GCode for frosting extrusion the only skeinforge setting that needed to be changed was layer thickness (in Carve). I changed it from .372 to something like 1.6 (this should be adjusted to match the frostruder). The GCode then needs to be manually edited to fix the startup.

This code segment should replace everything before <perimeter> (or everything before it actually starts making the object):

G92 X0 Y0 Z0
M104 S220 T0
M108 S255
M6 T0
M104 S220.0
M104 S220.0
M108 S255.0

G1 X1.5 Y-15.8 Z0.6 F2520.0

G04 P1000

Huge thanks goes to Wizard23 (Philipp) for helping us out with this.

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